In Chinese cuisine there's a technique that has no direct equivalent in the West. It's called lu wei (卤味)—literally "stewed in master broth"—and it's the art of cooking meat, offal, and eggs in a spiced broth that's reused, enriched, and perfected with each use. The result are ingredients that have absorbed layers of flavor impossible to obtain otherwise. It's the technique behind HAMMER's marinated beef and Lu Wei mixed plate.
The central concept of lu wei is the master broth (卤汁, lǔ zhī)—a cooking liquid that's never thrown away. Each time something is cooked in it, it absorbs flavors from the ingredients. Each time new spices are added to refresh it, it gains complexity. Restaurants that master lu wei have master broths that have been in continuous use for years. The broth starts with a base of soy sauce (dark and light), Shaoxing rice wine, rock sugar, and bone stock. To that the spices are added—and here's the personality of each master broth.
Though each master broth is unique, there's a core of spices that appears in practically all versions: star anise (八角)—the most aromatic spice, its aniseed aroma penetrates deep into the meat. Chinese cinnamon (桂皮)—more intense and earthy than Ceylon cinnamon, gives lu wei its characteristic depth. Sichuan pepper (花椒)—adds the touch of mala and floral fragrance. Dried chilies—for the base heat. Fresh ginger—counteracts the heavier aromas. Chinese bay leaf (香叶) and cloves (丁香) in moderation.
Lu wei works especially well with ingredients that benefit from slow, prolonged cooking: parts of the animal with collagen, with texture that heat softens in interesting ways. The most common are beef shank, chicken wings, hard-boiled eggs (which dye and aromatize with the broth), pork heart, tripe, and pork knuckle.
The marinated beef—beef shank cooked for hours in our spice master broth, served at room temperature in thin slices. The meat has absorbed the dark color from the broth, the aroma of anise and cinnamon, the subtle heat of Sichuan pepper. Served with a touch of chili oil and chopped scallion.
The Lu Wei mixed plate combines beef shank, pork heart, and tripe, all marinated in the same master broth. The contrast of textures—the tenderness of the shank, the firmness of the heart, the chewiness of the tripe—is intentional.
Lu wei can't be rushed. The beef shank needs 3 to 4 hours for the collagen to become gelatin and the meat to reach that texture that falls apart with fork pressure but holds the clean cut. A lu wei of one hour isn't lu wei: it's meat boiled with spices. The difference between two hours and four is noticed in every bite. At HAMMER we prepare lu wei with sufficient advance—it's a preparation that starts the day before. That invisible work is part of what's on the plate when it arrives at your table. Find it on our menu. Madrid and Barcelona.
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